Before you lift the car
- Get off the live lane if you can. Prefer a hard shoulder only where it is legal and safer than staying put, or take the next exit / park in a car park.
- Hazards on. Passengers out on the safe side, away from traffic.
- Confirm you have a usable spare or compressor kit, a jack that fits the car, and the correct wheel-nut key.
If you are on a motorway and cannot reach a safe place, stay behind the barrier if you can and use the emergency process for that road. Changing a wheel inches from live traffic is not bravery.
The change, without shortcuts
- Loosen nuts slightly while the wheel is still on the ground.
- Jack only at the marked points in the handbook. Guessing can damage sills.
- Fit the spare, nuts hand-tight, lower the car, then tighten in a star pattern.
- Check the spare's pressure as soon as you can. Many are under-inflated from years in the boot.
Speed and distance limits apply. They get you home or to a tyre shop. They are not a new set of long-term tyres.
Aftercare that people skip
Retorque the wheel nuts after a short drive. Repair or replace the damaged tyre properly. If the car keeps losing pressure, look for kerb damage or corrosion on the rim, not just a nail.
If this happens on a car you have just bought, treat repeated tyre failures as a prompt to check the wider history and keeper story, not only the rubber. ServiceLad's V5C alerts will not fix a puncture, but they help you watch the registration after purchase when small problems start stacking up.
For a clear roadside sequence, MOTCO's guide on how to change a flat tyre in the UK is worth saving before you need it.
Common questions
Can I drive on a flat to the next garage?
Avoid it. Even a short run on a flat can destroy the tyre and damage the rim.
What if I only have a sealant kit?
Use it only for suitable punctures in the tread area, then get the tyre inspected. Sidewall damage usually means the tyre is finished.